News & Weblog
25th Jan. 2012
ISPO Trade Show, Munich
I will be at the ISPO trade show in Munich, Germany next week.
- Sunday, 29th at 10am GORE (Hall B6 Booth 400)
– Monday, 30th at 5pm JULBO (Hall A3 Booth 309)
– Monday, 30th at 1pm CLIMBNG VILLAGE, Arc’teryx & BD (HALL B5)
I am looking forward catching up with you.
12th Oct. 2011
Expedition to Kyzyl Asker, Himalaya, September 2011
After my last two previous failed expedition attempts with Thomas Senf and Wolfgang Russegger to the “Red Soldier“, the 5842 meter high Mount Kyzyl Asker, in late fall of 2010, I knew I’d go back to try again. I traveled for the second time to the remote mountain range Kookshal Too, of Thien Shan, in Kyrgyzstan. Our goal: to ascend the South-East face of Mount Kyzyl Asker. Tried by many alpinists, without a successful ascent so far.
I would not have chosen the steep 1200 meter high wall, with a variety of difficult ice and rock climbing sections as a goal, if it wasn’t a real challenge in terms of testing both my climbing skills and mental strength. Therefore I knew what to expect. After a long winter climbing trip to Scotland, months of endurance training, and a fast ascent of Mont Blanc, I felt perfectly prepared to face this upcoming endeavor.
› Read the Expedition Report
2. Mai 2011
Repeating Super Cirill: redpoint/clean 8a/8a+
The 9 pitch route, Super Cirill, on Parete di Sonlerto is the hardest free climbing multi- pitch route in Tessin. Graded 8a/8a+, many of the cracks are interrupted by dihedrals and exposed traverses make for a technically challenging climbing experience. (200m, 7a+, 7a+, 7b+, 7c+/8a, 8a/8a+, 6c+, 6c, 6a+)
A double crack, like a hard splinter of bone, grins at me. Many years ago, fascinated with the rough granite and clean structures of this kind of climbing, I attempted this route with Stephan Siegrist. Disappointed then by the abundance of bolts, and disappointed that I wasn’t successful, I returned in May 2010, pleased to see that the past few years had seen changes: 6 bolts in the first 6 pitches, for intermediate belays where trad gear would be unsafe. Perfectly placed, perfect for me to try again.
Report: Super Cirill
14th February 2011
Vancouver International Mountain Film Festival
An short Interview I gave prior to my presentation at the Vancouver International Mountain Film Festival.
14th February 2011
Ines Papert in Scotland, new Ben Nevis and Cairngorms winter climbs
During a week winter climbing in Scotland, Ines Papert and Charly Fritzer have established Triple X, VIII,8 on Ben Nevis and Bavarinthia IX, 9 at Coire an Lochain in the Cairngorms.
After last year’s baptism of fine, German alpinist Ines Papert returned to Scotland at the end of January together with Charly Fritzer from Austria where she carried out a string of important repeats, including the first repeat of “To those who wait” IX, 9”, first climbed by Boswell and Sim high on Ben Nevis. Despite poor conditions they also managed two first ascents: “Triple X”, VIII,8 on Ben Nevis – climbed along with Dave MacLeod, following a weaving line the Scotsman had scoped during his attempts of Echo Wall – and “Bavarinthia” IX, 9 at Coire an Lochain in the Cairngorms.
Read the full article over at planetmountain.com
