Granit-Genuß im Cirque of the Unclimbables
Ines Papert und Lisi Steurer in Kanada
Power of Silence at Middle Huey Spire
On August 2, the very talented climbers, German Ines Papert and Austrian Lisi Steurer, first ascended Power of Silence (5.13a 7c+ 11 pitches ) a new route on the wonderful granite of South Wall (400 metri) of Middle Huey Spire at Cirque of Unclimbables, Canada.
The route follows a system of cracks on the left section of the wall and pass huge roofs. The two alpinists used quick protections (except on belays).
During the first ascents, the duo used 90 meters of fixed rope left during a former british attempt, but few days later, on August 7, Ines and Lisi redpointed the whole route.
As the meteo was favourable, Ines and Lisi onsighted theLotus Flower Tower 800 m 5.10c in 9,5hours, then Ines made the first free ascent of the 11 pitches of “Riders on the Storm” IV 5.12 d (7c) at the East Huey Spire.
From 2001 on Ines collected ice climbing world cup and world championship titles. To find more time for her mountain projects, she terminated her competitive career in 2006
Amongst her several excellent realisations: Free ascent of Camilotto Pellisier (8b), Cima Grande di Lavaredo; First ascent of Into the Wild (M12) alpine climb in Icefall Brook, British Columbia, Canada; First ascent of Cobra Norte (ED+ M8) on Kwangde Shar (6093 m), Northface, Nepal, Himalaya.
Lisi Steurer is a very gifted climber, and Alpine Guide based in Lienz. In 2001 she gained the second place in Saas Fee Ice Climbing World Cup
Source: bergsteigen.at
klettern.de
ms
